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Waiting to erupt part 4: Cave-dwellers

Friday, March 20th, 2009

Our accommodation at Nomikos Villas boasts not just any cave, but a cave that, as became abundantly clear, should just be filled in with cement and converted into giant Aegean waterslides.

The living room (remember? lino floor, fluoro lights, weird smell) has a couch with a 10cm thick mattress on a wooden frame – this is bed number one.

Then there’s the bedroom (a cave) which has bed number two, as well as this mysterious crevice in the wall with a light globe in it (a mini cave). Is it a shelf? Is it a shrine? Is it a mistake?

Is this all one big, expensive mistake?

I take one look at the bedroom with its low, dug-out ceiling and no windows. With great relief, I recall that I’d slept on the last available big bed and, so, this time it was Marilyn’s turn.

“You can take the big bed this time,” I say. “Plus, I’ll have an anxiety attack in here.”

‘Here’ being a cave. But, I guess, we asked for it.

And then there’s the bathroom – aka “that f–king bathroom” Marilyn wanted so badly. I guess it kind of looked like the brochure. But what do you get when you coat a cave’s walls in that same shade of cement they use in beach toilet blocks, with no windows, no ventilation, and lots of water?

Ah, so that’s where the smell is coming from.

Back in the livingroom, meanwhile, there’s a TV – plus satellite, with hundreds of channels! Of course, these are in every language other than English. We pass the evening, exhausted, watching music videos and attempting to drink local wine that tastes like liquid raisins.

Sleep time arrives. We say goodnight and retire to couch and cave respectively. All of five minutes passes.

“Keira?”

She says my name with a familiar inflection – like a scared child with a desperate sense of humour. It’s one I’ve heard countless times before across a broad spectrum of disasters.

I turn my head and look up to see Marilyn standing in the cave doorway (a caveway?) with her pillow under one arm, blanket under the other.

“I can’t sleep,” she says. “Whenever I close my eyes, I can see that mini cave behind my eyelids. It’s freaking the $hit out of me.”

“Do you wanna swap?” I offer, hoping the answer is no.

“No, that’s okay, I’ll just sleep in here on the floor…”

“You’re not sleeping on the f–king floor for 130 Euro a night!” I protest. “Do you want me to get a deckchair from the patio?”

“Okay,” Marilyn replies, making it sound like a more reasonable idea than it is.

So, in my pyjamas, I step out onto our patio – which isn’t partitioned from patios for other rooms – and walk over to our solitary deckchair. Thanks to a full day’s rain, it’s wet.

I look over to our neighbour’s deckchairs – they’re stacked on top of each other and have been under cover all day. So I grab one of theirs and bring it inside. Then I take our wet one and stack it on top of their remaining one. The perfect crime.

I complete this bizarre post-midnight task, stifling a guffaw all the way.

Marilyn layers towels and blankets onto this black wicker deckchair, dresses it in a sheet, grabs her pillow and lies down. And I go back to my rock-hard couch.

After a night of attempted sleep on these, it’s our turn to “feel so bad”.

Bring on the bottomless breakfast… right?

Waiting to erupt, part 3: Greek tragedy

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

The lights come up to reveal a thin, solitary figure, dressed in black.

She claims the epic space with her broad, flowing hand gestures, musical phrasing, and unintentional air of absurdity. The figure’s hair is larger-than-life, like Medea or Medusa. She plays both lead and chorus like a choir leader… or Medusa.

“I feel so bad,” is her refrain.  “I feel so bad for you guys.”

Even though we’re at Nomikos Villas in Santorini , I’m transported back to The Odeon of Herodes Atticus in Athens. I can just hear this woman’s words bouncing off every stone surface of that extraordinary 5000-seat monument to live performance built thousands of years ago.

“I can’t.  I can’t give you Room 6 like your friends because there are people in it.  Who told you that you could have it?  A guy?  Well, that guy is an idiot.  Here, let me show you another.”

We’re sitting at a tired tiki-hut bar by a stagnant swimming pool.  Above us looms a cluster of white villas that, yes, are carved into the cliffs of Santorini – just like the Canadian couple said.

Our thespian hotel manager points toward an open door to the left of the closet-sized reception office.  It looks like a storage room – no, wait a minute, it IS.  That’s where the unmarked man put our luggage!

“Take a look at this one.  It’s bigger than what you were promised, but I’ll give it to you for the same price.”

We walk inside and, to be fair, it is kind of big.  But it’s also dark, dank, claustrophobic and full of other people’s luggage.  It’s nothing like the brochure.

“Is there anything a little less… dungeon-like?” I ask.

“We really want this bathroom,” Marilyn says, showing the woman the brochure.

“For that same price?  No.  I can’t.  I can’t do it.  I feel so bad…  It’s not your fault that the guy you talked to on the phone was an idiot.  But there’s one more room upstairs.  The people are checking out today if you don’t mind waiting.  15 minutes.”

She runs off and we plant ourselves back at the tiki-hut bar.  We’re drinking this nice red fizzy booze which has made the whole thing slightly comedic.  At least, for me.

“Dude, I’m happy to just go back to Atlantis,” I tell Marilyn.

“I want that f–king bathroom,” she says.

Medea returns, hands clasped, ready for Act Two.

“Okay, the room upstairs will be free soon.  I can’t give it to you for the same price, but I can still give you a discount.  Do you want to see it?  I feel so bad for you guys.  You’re on vacation…”

She’s giving us a performance aimed at bringing 5000 ancient Greeks to their feet in that oh-so-steeply-tiered amphitheatre back in Athens.

Instead, she’s got a two Aussies with flip-flops and blank expressions.

“You can see it and make your decision.  But it’s not cleaned yet, the people just left.  I made them leave faster.  For you.”

We climb up and up and up the stairs.  One thing’s for sure – the view of the Caldera never fails to disappoint.

We walk inside and, well, it’s a cave alright.  A cave with linoleum floors, fluorescent lighting, one small window, and… what is that smell?

“So this is for the same price we were quoted?” Marilyn asks.

“No, I can’t.  I can’t do that.  I feel so bad…”

She shows us a folder with the regular prices.  “Here, see?  Usually 330 Euro.  My boss won’t let me do any lower than 165.”

Marilyn and I look at each other.  Medea won’t leave us alone to discuss it.

“I feel so bad…  Let me check.”  She runs off to the ‘wings’.

Marilyn and I decide that if she won’t give it to us for the 130 Euro we were quoted, we’re gonna hit the road back to Atlantis.

Medea returns for her third and final act.

“Okay, because you were lied to by that idiot guy on the phone, my boss says you can have this one for the 130.  Okay?  Now we’ll clean the room for you.  15 minutes.”

Lights down.

Waiting to erupt, part 2: Continental shift

Wednesday, March 18th, 2009

Yesterday we climbed a volcano and, in a manner of speaking, drove ourselves up the wall – the Oia steps, to be precise.  It had been adventure on the high seas and high up a cliff, and by the end it was high freaking time I slept.  

After a long shower - which served the double purpose of rinsing the hot springs’ mineral deposits out of my clothes – I collapsed in a heap on my bed.  Somehow, though, Marilyn still had the energy to go out and eat and make new friends (Aussies, of course – because there’s not a place in the world where you won’t find them).  Where this boundless energy comes from – whether she jabs metal rods into powerpoints to charge herself up, or has an endless supply of intravenous caffeine - is anyone’s guess.  It’s always been this way, right back from when we met as 12-year-olds.

All I had the energy to do, meanwhile, was eat three cookies and fall asleep watching Catch Me If You Can – which was apparently still airing when Marilyn returned from dinner several hours later.  The Greeks have such long ad breaks in their TV programming you could cook a three-course meal during one and use the next to eat it in.  Maybe that’s the idea.

But this is the main difference between my best friend and I - while I’m often content to just be in a new place, Marilyn cannot rest until she’s seen and done (and eaten) everything.  Then she rests in much the same way as a fallen pillar. 

I, on the other hand, will see some things (plenty of things, really), eat some things (again, plenty), and be content to just soak up a new atmosphere along the way.

Though some might call it faffing, I need reflection time.  Maybe I’ll stay up till the wee hours to pore over my journal, or wake up early without prompting (which only ever happens if I’m travelling) and meditatively repack my bag.  I need time to find the soundtrack to a place.  I need time to write.

It’s only now that we’re travelling together - particularly here in Santorini - that our differing energy levels have come close to being contentious.  Maybe it’s a weird side-effect of being in such an overwhelmingly spectacular place.

As for my sleep patterns, with every trip my body becomes more skilled at creating a timezone all of its own.  And then, even once I find a locally-appropriate sleep pattern to cling to, it only takes the slightest disturbance to knock it off course again.

In Athens, it was the roosters and the cigarette smoke.  In Mykonos, it was the roosters again.  In Santorini it was the motorbikes, the church bells… and the roosters (But where are they all?  From Athens to Crete I didn’t see a single rooster, but I heard them everywhere!).

The next day is the rainy, whiney one where we have a rainy, whiney (yet tasty) lunch and talk about impending doom in our epic (and epically-juvenile) friendship.  Whatever.  Everything is about to get a whole lot more luxurious when we get to the place that the Canadian couple recommended to us.

Our final night in Santorini will be spent in kick-ass caves carved into an Everest of style with bottomless breakfasts and beauty spa-worthy bathrooms.  Marilyn has already called the place and haggled with them to get the same price as the couple.  It’s sorted – the hotel peeps are even going to pick us up outside the post office.

We bid a sad farewell to Hotel Atlantis, its spectacular view, and the lovely staff there.  The super helpful front-desk lady even asks if we won’t stay just one more night.  In truth, I’m not sure why we’re leaving either, considering we struck gold with this place, but there’s more to see.  Adventure calls.

When an unmarked white car shows up, and an equally unmarked guy gets out and takes our bags, I have a small, silent freak-out.  This could be anyone’s car.  And this guy could be, well, anyone.  In a strange home-away-from-home moment, we drive along a eucalypt-lined road to a small town on the other side of Fira called Firostefani.

The driver – who, despite language barriers, I’ve gleaned to be a pretty nice dude - drags our bags along the cobblestones and up the stairs for us.  Definitely something that an employee of a luxury abode would do, right?  All signs are good: Kolofarthia!

But when we meet the rail-thin, frizzy-haired manager-on-duty of Nomikos Villas, we soon experience another concept of Greek origins: Drama.